Prato Expo: Collections from L.D.S., Lineaesse, Mario Belluci, Fa. I. Sa and Binicocchi
Soft, lightweight leathers with 'slightly moving surfaces', lightly spotted diagonals have a very velvety hand in pale, natural, beige or honey colors for the 'City Life' story. Mutton and buckskin are milk-white on both sides, or on the fur side only. Colors are raspberry, must and shiny, reflective gold. Also important is a waxy black, stretch, dress weight that changes color depending on the tension.
Neutrals, pinkish whites and white wools are the components for 'Street wise'. Fabrics are puffy, soft, double-face offering optimum comfort, to be worn over metallicized or lizard-printed jeans. Skin colors dominate: camel, leather, brown, followed by a black, plum, earthenware, octane, violet, grape and honey.
''Directional for the season will be napa, which has an animal aspect to it, coordinated with wool for a total look," remarked Franco Bini.
Lineaesse developed some crepes with a tender hand, flannels, bi-stretch, boucle-jersey compact and soft, micro-tweed, three-dimensional galles in chenille, short hairy wovens, very soft Shetlands with a 'worn out' aspect, mohair with large checks and plays on Scot checks. Wool/viscose have some plisse effects, viscose jacquards have relief for a renaissance touch and we find paisleys themes on blurry surfaces. The great classics continue with small weaves in honey tones, mini-boucles and tone on tone jacquards.
Color palettes range from the neutrals, white to beige, honey to tobacco, noisette to brown; ochres, from red to the deeper shades; violets from lilac to rose to red violet; sky blue, peacock, royal and navy blues. Grays, black and white are used for a more masculine feel.
This season Mario Belluci launched a new line of tricot and knits. In addition, they showed stretch qualities and carded fabrics. New surfaces have a soft rubbery hand. Some wools are mixed with a touch of nylon. Donegal gauzes have crushed, flattened hairs. Ultra lightweight tiny donegals in lively colors are feminine.
Heavy tweed, grainy structures and traditional designs enlarge; double-faced fabrics have two different designs on either side like checks and diagonals. Wool/viscose/nylon boucles show some interesting use of color.
The Chanel theme is accelerating in wool/viscose/nylon, in piece-dyes, grainy or airy structures and double face. Also evident is the panama weave and tricot effects. Small and slightly silky surfaces are due to the addition of viscose.
Carded wools mix with silk for a drapey aspect. Over-checks are given a beaver finish for a soft hand. Colors are lively, with the quieter tones used in checks. Wool and nylon tubular knits have small compact designs. Fabrics have soft , carded, thin in solids and checks in strong, happy colors. Wool/nylon/mohair combinations are used for jacket, dress and coat weights. Wool/viscose/mohair are used in combed yarn dyes. Shiny satins with micro slubs give off a variety of impressions.
Colors range from camels to browns, bordeaux, prune, red to violet, deep red and forest green.
Fa.I.Sa noted less interest in solids, and more in novelties. The season is very favorable towards Prato. Fa.I.Sa developed new carded and combed wools, natural fibres, wool mixed with cashmere, alpaca and camel 'baby wool' from first shearing. Hands are soft, gentle to touch, with swollen, lightweight effects. There are touches of artificial or synthetic in the mixes. Important are wool and cotton, wool with synthetic, especially nylon for semi shiny and a modern hand.
Surfaces are very clean, feminine, refined and almost moving. Plain weave, satin weave, batavia and panama weaves are key. Novelty yarns create curious structures. Tweed and shetlands have metallic effects.
Classical neutrals to browns are used for the noble fibers; pinky oranges to reds, prune and black cherry for novelties.
'We are rediscovering wool, going back to something that already exists. It goes to show that trends aren't always 'new'. Directional this season are tweeds, checks and novelties. Sophisticated looks continue', commented Roberto Saccenti, Fa.I. Sa.
Binicocchi stresses the importance of mohair, tweed, boucle, cashmere and angora. Natural fibers are used pure or mixed with nylon for support. Long hairy fabrics are important for the season. Color adds excitement to everything, but mostly in neutral and dark shades. Stretch continues, with elastomers, mono or bi-stretch. Special finishings give smooth hairy aspects, puffy surfaces or are shiny or crushed; some fabrics are pierced with laser designs and geometry. Surfaces are smeared with water repellent polyurethane for a technical aspect. Also evident are the velvety finishings and the use of chenille.
Important colors for Autumn Winter 2001-02 are the natural camel and beige followed by warm tones of wine, prune, lavender, violet and octane.