IFFE Spring/Summer 2001 - Inspired by Optimism
At the helm of this show for the first time was Magic International, a long established organization supporting the Men's and Boys wear sectors. A subsidiary of Advanstar Communications, Inc. the company now owns and operates the suite of shows formerly managed by the Larkin Group.
Following closely on the heels of Premiere Vision, IFFE serves as natural evolution and confirmation of trends already set forth in Paris. In the realm of technology, the array of new developments can be mind-boggling. Happily, improvements in form and function remain in service to, and not in dominance over, comfort and fashion. New finishes that aim to improve on persistently popular natural fibers bring us intelligent fabrics which are antibacterial, thermo-regulating, shock resistant, easy care, and waterproof among others.
Comfort reigns supreme as evidenced by dry, powdery finishes, smooth surfaces, super light weights, and soft, worn-in hands. At Noveltex a "wrinkle-free" 100% Belgian linen was featured, claiming to emerge from the dryer needing no ironing. Even though it will still wrinkle from wearing, we may be on our way to a solution to Linens'stubborn propensity to wrinkle. That's hopeful. And nearly everything stretched, including our imaginations.
In fabric constructions, lighter than light was the key trend. Exquisite, weightless chiffons in prints and solids for the couture market were seen at Henry Bertrand from London. Gauzy linens, tender voiles, layered sheer constructions that seem to float were abundant. Crinkled, rumpled and bubble effects supported the trend.
Color is news again. Big news. Not just which colors, but more colors and the freedom to mix them in dynamic combinations is bringing us out of a period of neutrals. What's driving the swing towards renewed importance of color? Catalogue and web page retailing may take some of the credit, as merchandise offered in these venues must speak louder to make an impression.
The love of neutrals hasn't exactly gone away, but we'll be seeing them now paired with vibrant colors for a new look. Iridescent fabrics and layered sheers create color illusions that defy definition. Very refreshing.
In their Vision Spring/Summer 2001, the American Trend and Color Committee presented a report based on the collaborative expertise of twenty industry experts. Seven themed palettes titled Love, Hope, Peace, Strength, Light, Joy and Smile offered an overall optimistic, fresh look at colors forecasted expressly for the American market. While decidedly feminine, they project more trans-gender and trans-seasonal use of color.
Along with color, prints are back in a big way! Yet, a print is not just a print anymore. Surface designers have taken the lead in expanding the boundaries of surface design to include all variety and combination of fabric embellishment – mirrors, beads, sequins, embroidery, buttons, ribbon, fringe, trims, decorative stitching…need I go on?
At Shamash and Sons, the latest news in prints was well represented: perennial florals, large scale polka dots, Indian inspired paisleys, tropicals, border prints, Eastern European peasant looks. Prints layered under sheers creating blurred, watercolor effects were also shown.
The fusion of conventional East and West motifs appears as a strong trend in print design: western cowboys on madras, tropical florals over Indian paisley. And animal prints just won't go away.
Perhaps as never before, fabrics are the canvas for consumers hungry for a sense of individuality to indulge their every passing mood. Today a Nuevo hippie, tomorrow an Indian queen. Next week a disco rocker or European peasant girl.
Well beyond any singularly dominant fashion trend, or more recently "life style dressing," the fashion industry has ingeniously transitioned from an era of minimalism to a place where clothing is fun and magical again. Hopefully, the optimism conveyed at the show will be reflected on the bottom line come Spring/Summer 2001.
By Janet Bunce
Contributing Editor